2 Point Locks

We went over 3 Point locks, aka Multi Point locks or Patio Locks – so then what’s a 2 Point lock? You might think that it would be similar to the Multi point lock with bolts coming out every which way of the door to secure the door in place, but in fact it’s a lot simpler. The Multi Point lock is basically a mechanism that already comes with the door and may not be as necessary to have for your exterior door. Whereas the 2 Point lock is just a handleset (which also includes the mechanism) that you purchase for your door. The 2 Point lock basically has two different locks or keyed cylinders included in the handleset.  One keyed cylinder lock is on top also known as the deadbolt (like every other handleset) but what makes this handleset different from every other is that it also includes a keyed cylinder or a turn button to lock the thumb latch part below the deadbolt. Most handlesets only have one keyed cylinder (on the deadbolt portion of the handleset), which works just fine for many applications, but a 2 Point lock makes a lot of customers feel more comfortable, safe and worry free. 2 Point Locks aren’t as common as the regular handlesets you can find everywhere, but you will find they add one step more security. These 2 Point handlesets work basically just like a simple deadbolt and entrance lock. The deadbolt is locked straight into the door jamb and secures the door in place, and the cylinder below locks the handle or lever keeping it in place.

Basically, the 2 Point locks are a step up from the regular handleset. Adding a little more security and keeps the customer happy by making them feel a little less worried knowing that their home is a little safer.

What is a Multi Point Lock?

So we kind of already talked about how to order a 3 Point Lock Trim in this post, but we can get a bit deeper. A 3 Point, also known as a Multi-point lock or Patio Lock, have 3 different bolts that come out of 3 different points of the door to lock and secure the door in place. The 3 points where each bolt will come out of the door are located on the top, the bottom and of course the bolt the comes out of the side (just like any regular deadbolt). To lock these all in place, you simply pull the lever on the door up and all the bolts are engaged and the door is secure in place.

The main goal for these Multi-Point Locks, first and foremost is the security factor. Basically it’s 3 bolts locking from top, bottom and side edge of the door, which is a whole lot more secure than a basic deadbolt that just locks from the side edge. A lot of people use these not only for how secure they are, but also how stylish and how they function is a big plus for some. If you lock the door from the inside and go outside, when the door is shut, the lever is locked. This feature is really nice for some people, because you don’t have to take that step to lock the deadbolt behind you if you need to make a quick run. Don’t forget your keys though. The option if you don’t want the lever to stay locked would be to unlock the inside button and it will release the lock. There are several functions like, keyed, non-keyed passage, non-keyed/thumbturn inside, non-keyed/fixed out/operable in, and dummy.

Now, what you will find on our site are the trims only, which include the backplate and levers that connect to the mechanism. We do not carry the mechanism. Usually the mechanism comes with the door you order, and it’s already put together and ready for you. We give a variety of trims that you can choose from which makes it fun and easy to find the style that fits you and your home.

 

 

Deadbolt Types:

Deadbolts are a must have to securely lock any exterior door. Deadbolts are key to keeping your mind at ease if away from your home or office, and are very important for any business for maintaining security. There are 4 main types of deadbolts, each different depending on the application or preference.

Single Cylinder are the most common, as they would work on any application and are the most affordable. Single Cylinder deadbolts require a key to unlock and lock the door. And the door can also be unlock and locked with a simple turn of the thumbturn from the inside.

 

Double Cylinder deadbolts have keyed cylinders on both sides of the door, which requires a key to unlock and lock from both sides of the door. These are not recommended for just any door, because if there was an emergency you would need your key handy before being able to unlock the door to escape. This style is mainly used on doors that are part glass. It’s a comfort for people to know that if an intruder were to break the glass, they would need a key to unlock the deadbolt.

Single Sided deadbolts are often confused with the single cylinder, but they are completely different. Single sided deadbolts have only a thumb turn on the inside of the door and is blank on the outside of the door. These require special prepping for the door, where the bore hole is not drilled all the way through the door, but only half of the door. If your door already has a bore hole completely through the door, then this style will not work on that door.

Keyless Electronic/Mechanical Deadbolts are the fancy deadbolts that have the electronic keypad, so all you have to do is remember the code to punch in an unlock the door. These are battery operated, and lots have the light up key pad. Keyless do not require a key to enter, but they have an available keyed cylinder if you wish to use that. You don’t have to remember your keys to get inside your home, office or business! Just program a code or several if you need, so easy! Mechanical Deadbolts are pretty much the same thing as the keyless electronic. They have a keypad to punch in a simple code to enter. The only difference is that mechanical do not require batteries or power to operate.

 

What kinds of Strike Plates Are There?

The strike plate is the little plate that goes in the door jamb where the latch or plunger would lock into. This piece is pretty important believe it or not. Without it, you wouldn’t be able to tap the door and it automatically lock into place. This piece helps guide the latch into the hole in the door jamb, without having to turn the door knob or lever. It keeps the door in place until the door knob or lever is turned which releases the latch. To fit the strike plate inside the door jamb, the wood has to be chiseled out to match the shape of the strike – making sure it’s flush to the jamb. Simple enough, but what kinds of strike plates are there?

Full Lip Strike:

The full lip strike is the most common. As you can see there are 2 different kinds of full lip strikes: round corner or square. The measurement that this strike plate is showing would be considered the width, because it would be the width if it was on the door jamb. The width is measured from the screw hole to the edge, like shown above.

 

Extended Lip Strike:

Extended lip strikes look similar to the full lip, except it’s a lot wider. Sometimes doors require a deeper strike, possibly because the door is wider than the standard size.

 

T-Strike:

  Can you tell by the name why it’s possible they named this style the T-strike? This is just another style of strike that some doors may already be prepped for. It’s not very common someone specifically asks for a T-strike just because, it’s usually because it’s already prepped that way.

 

Circular Strike:

The circular strike is kind of a funny looking style, but if your door jamb is already prepped this way it will pretty much save your life.

 

Deadbolt Strike:

Deadbolt strikes are obviously different. They are used for the deadbolt, and they don’t require a lip because the bolt doesn’t strike on the plate like the latch does on the strike plates. It basically covers the part of the jamb where the hole would be and the bolt would lock into place. Dresses it up a bit.

 

Most of the hardware comes standard with the full lip strike, but are available with pretty much any of the styles listed upon request.

 

What is ANSI?

You may have seen something like “Conforms with ANSI…” next to the UL rated sign on some of the commercial hardware. But what does ANSI mean? If you happened to read the UL Listing post you may know a little bit about it. It stands for American National Standards Institute. This is an agency that tests and sets standards for lots of things.

You may also see something about BHMA (Builders Hardware Manufacturers), which is a similar agency to ANSI. Unlike ANSI, BHMA specifically tests door hardware, where ANSI could be pretty much testing anything. To be a little more specific on testing and setting standards, ANSI grades the hardware for strength and longevity. You may have noticed that door hardware has different grades like grade 1, grade 2 and grade 3. Those are ANSI grades.

Grade 1 being the highest or the most heavy duty grade for door hardware. Grade one is used for public buildings, like schools or hospitals etc.

Grade 2 is considered more of a light commercial and used on apartment buildings, dentist offices or pretty much any office or business. For example, the Schlage F-Series residential and Weslock residential locks have a grade 2 rating.

Grade 3 is basically all the simple hardware you would find in the home. The doors at home aren’t used quite as often as more public places so they don’t require heavy duty hardware. Hardware like the Kwikset residential is a grade 3. And Sure-Loc would probably be a grade 3 if ANSI rated it.

 

What is UL Listing?

UL Listing (aka Underwriters Laboratories)  “is an independent product safety certification organization. Established in 1894, the company has its headquarters in Northbrook, Illinois.” For door hardware, UL Listing is basically saying that it’s been tested and meets safety requirements in case of fire. In other words, it will maintain it’s integrity for 3 hours if there were a fire and after that it’s probably destroyed. You will find that Commercial buildings usually require UL listed for 3 hour fire.  So, with the UL agency it’s comforting to know that they make sure and test the hardware for safety and also they make sure that the hardware will hold up long enough (3 hours) so that you can exit the building if you are inside when/if there is a fire. Each product is tested for fire resistance and performance, including swinging doors, glazing materials, frames, locks, closers, hinges and other door hardware products. Services UL includes:

  • *ANSI/UL 10C, Positive pressure fire tests of door assemblies.
  • *ANSI/UL 10B, Fire tests of Door Assemblies
  • UL 1784, Air Leakage Tests of Door Assemblies
  • NFPA 252, Standard Methods of Fire Tests of Door Assemblies
  • UL Subject 63, Outilne of Investigation for Fire Door Frames
  • CAN4-S104-M80, Standard Method for Fire Tests of Door Assemblies
You can find this and other info at UL.com.

*ANSI (American National Standards Institute) or BHMA (Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association) are similar agencies, but for testing and grading the hardware for strength and longevity. ANSI Grade for door hardware will be grade 1, grade 2, or grade 3. Grade 1 being the highest or heavy duty grade.

If you take a look at the Commercial hardware, you can click on the UL Listed category on the left and all of the commercial knobs and levers that are UL Listed will pop up. There are also order Emtek Deadbolts and the Schlage B60 deadbolt in a UL version, just give us a call to order.

 

All About Backsets:

A backset is the distance from the edge of your door to the center of the bore hole (the big hole where the doorknob is mounted).

Most doors today are already prepped with the standard sizes. A 1″ cross bore hole, 2 1/8″ bore hole, and prepped to fit either 2 3/8″ or 2 3/4″ backsets. Lots of times the backsets that come with the hardware you purchase are adjustable between these 2 sizes, which makes ordering a whole lot easier. Some hardware, this isn’t always the case and you may find that it isn’t even a standard size backset. So to be safe, you should go and measure your door to make sure of the size backset you need to order. The easiest way to figure out what  you need is to measure from the edge of the door where the latch goes in and out to the highest part of your bore hole, or the highest part of the existing knob’s backplate.

The sizes that we just mentioned for tubular backsets aren’t the only sizes out there for standard doors, there are a couple more that we offer on our site. For instance, the 2″ tubular backset is more uncommon, but there are some doors we have found that require a size smaller than 2-3/8″. This 2″ backset size is made by Brass Accents, just give us a call to order.

Also, there are some cases where the backset measurement is bigger than the 2-3/4″, and you may find that your measurement is a 5″ backset. Again, a 5″ backset isn’t as common as the standard sizes, but we see them more often then the 2″, and because it’s a little more common that means you’ll find it’s offered in a bigger variety. Kwikset and Schlage brands offer this size with pretty much any of the hardware they carry, all you have to do is request a 5″ backset.

So what if you have a mortise style door? It’s basically the same idea if you are trying to measure. Just find the center where the door knob would go through and measure from that point to the edge of the door. Generally the backset sizes for these mortise styles will be either 2-1/2″ or 2-3/4″. But Baldwin carries a special 1-1/2″ and 2″ backset mortise box for narrow stiles.

If you need more help, give us a call and we can help you find the hardware with the right size backset for you!

What Types of Latches Are There?

What is a Latch?

Wikipedia’s definition of latch: “is a type of mechanical fastener that is used to join two (or more) objects or surfaces together while allowing for the regular or eventual separation of the objects or surfaces… A latch typically engages another piece of hardware on the other mounting surface…”

Not to be confused with the actual lever or knob of the door, a latch has a spring loaded plunger that you see from the side of the door. When the door knob or lever is turned, the plunger is recessed into the door and then it will spring back out of the door when the knob or lever is released.

You may think that all you would need to do if you are in need of a latch is simply ask for one and then it would be boxed up right away and shipped to your front door, but you would be wrong. It’s a little more complicated, because there are several kinds of latches. Asking for just “a latch” is a pretty broad question.

What types of Latches are there?

There are 5 different kinds of latches that we will go over. Note that some of backsets are adjustable (2 3/8″ – 2 3/4″), but some will not adjust which means you will need to measure your door to make sure what size will fit.

Standard Latch:

Here is your standard latch. It’s the basic one you would use on a passage or privacy door or the interior doors of your home. Each latch will come with a rectangular shaped face plate with either round corners or square corners. The face plates require chiseling out the wood on the side of the door (where the plunger part of the latch comes in and out), that way the plate is flush and screw mounted to the door.

 

 

Drive-in Latch:

Drive-in latches are also used for passage or privacy doors. As you can see, unlike the standard latch there is no face plate. These are placed in the door and do not require chiseling out wood as the standard latch does.

 

 

 

Dead-latch:

The Dead-latch is only used for keyed door knobs/levers, like on an exterior door for example. What make these unique is the cylindrical plunger next to the main one, which makes exterior doors more secure and harder for an intruder to enter.

 

28 Degree Retract Latch:

The 28 degree retract latch as you can see makes it so the lever or knob won’t have to turn as much to recess the plunger and open the door. Makes life easier.

Deadbolt Latch:

A deadbolt latch is used for the deadbolts only. It has a square plunger that is not spring loaded like the others. It will only go in and out of the door by the turn of the tumbturn or use of the key.

 

It’s really not hard when you are ordering, most of these descriptions are located in the description of the hardware you are ordering. You can also find most of these latches in the Latches and Parts section on the website. If you still need help, give us a call! We would be happy to help you!

Keyless Lock Types:

Keyless locks are handy and are becoming quite common. The keyless door locks allow you to program multiple codes to allow various people access to your home. You don’t have to carry keys! You don’t have to worry about your or someone else losing the key to your home and then having to hire a locksmith to unlock the door and re-key your locks! Simply reprogram if you decide you don’t want an individual to have access to your home. You will find that most of the residential keyless locks are electronic, use batteries and have a backlit keypad for easy access when it’s dark out. Then there are the mechanical keyless locks which do not require batteries. Below, you will learn about different categories like keyless deadbolts, keyless levers and knobs, keyless handlesets and mechanical locks and find what works best for your home.

Keyless Deadbolts:

Keyless Deadbolts do not require a key, but you can use one if you would like. Keyless deadbolts are generally used with a doorknob or lever below. Keyless deadbolt locks are programmable so you can create your own code to lock and unlock the door.

 

 Keyless Levers and Knobs:

 

Keyless levers and knobs have a combo of the keyless pad entry and the lever/knob below. It’s a handy thing to have because it’s all in one.

 

 

Keyless Handlesets:

Keyless Handlesets are a great way to dress up your door if you are wanting the keyless option. It’s a nice combo, just like the keyless knob and lever style, but a little more dressed up. The one shown on the left is the Emtek EMtouch keyless handleset (also available in the keyless deadbolt or leverset). These have touch screens similar to the iphone and they are black when not used.  You can make your door look great as well as make it super easy to enter and exit your home.

 

Mechanical Locks:

Mechanical keyless locks are super neat, because they don’t require batteries to operate the deadbolt. These don’t require power of any kind! The mechanical design works in extreme cold and heat. Don’t ever worry about the batteries dying again!

 

 

Browse all the keyless locks and find what will work best and what style looks best for your home!

 

 

 

 

 

Ordering Kickplates:

Kickplates come in a large variety of finishes and sizes. Some of the finishes available are Polished Brass PVD, Satin Stainless, Polished Stainless, Oil Rubbed Bronze, Satin Nickel, Pewter, Antique Brass, Weathered Black, Weathered Rust, and choose from the plastic finishes too! These kickplates are available as a standard screw mount, an adhesive mount or magnetic mount. If you want magnetic mount, make sure your door is not wood, because it will not work.

When ordering and you are in a hurry, make sure and call for availability first so we can make sure and get it out ASAP – otherwise it usually takes around 2 weeks for it to ship as most kickplates are made per order.

It’s important to know that when you are ordering you will want to order a kickplate that is 2″ shorter than your door width so that it doesn’t get in the way of your door trim and weatherstripping. So for example if you have a door that is 30″, you will will want to order a 28″ wide kickplate.

Start by selecting the finish of your choice and then once you do that you can choose the size that will fit your door. If the size is not shown in the pull down box, contact us for a quote! We do custom order kickplates too. Then choose from screw mount, adhesive mount or magnetic mount. Remember the magnetic mount will not work for a wood door. Screw mount is the most common.

  • Screw mount kickplates have evenly spaced screws along the top and bottom. Using screw mount will leave holes in your door if you ever remove it so be sure you want the kickplate before ordering. These can be installed on wood, metal or fiberglass doors.
  • Magnetic mount kickplates have a magnetic sheet across the back (only works on steel doors) The entire back side of the kickplate is coated with a layer of magnetic material to give a nice secure hold on the door so that it will not move when opened and closed repeatedly.
  • Adhesive mount kickplates have a weather adhesive strip on the top and bottom. With the adhesive mount make sure you line everything up and install the kickplate where you want it the first time, because it cannot be reapplied. Adhesive mount kickplates give you a clan look without mounting screws.

There is an automatic discount for 5 kickplates or more, you will see the discount when you add the kickplates to the cart. If you have a big project (like 10 or more kickplates) we will be happy to give you a quote!

If you need to know more about the base material or the thickness of the finish you selected, check the bottom of the page.

When your kickplate arrives, it have an adhesive covering the front surface to protect the finish. So you will just need to peel of the film and see the finish. We recommend removing the film after installation to protect it while installing.

Get started here.